A Word or Two (or 768) on Leprosy (a.k.a. Unclean)

Before coming to India, I basically considered leprosy an ancient disease – a repugnant relic held by those of Biblical times and not pertinent to the world in which we live today.  I suppose that objectively I could have reasoned that it wasn’t obsolete, since I have a wonderful friend (JF) who shared with me his stories of visiting the leprosy colony on one of the small and otherwise uninhabited islands of Hawaii.  Even then, I remember feeling astounded that leprosy was still alive and well (in an ironic way) and could have easily assumed that all of the world’s leprous had been quarantined to that one small island in Hawaii.

Au contraire, Rebekah.  As it turns out, leprosy is not only alive and well but is far more prevalent than I had preconceived.   Leprosy, or Hansen’s disease, affects people all over the world and continues to spread daily.  In 2009 there were more than 240,000 new cases worldwide.  A significant portion of those were in India, where over 50% of all leprosy patients reside, but significant leprous populations exist also in Brazil and Indonesia, and smaller populations dot the rest of the globe – China, Angola, the Philippines, Madagascar, Tanzania.  There are even a few hundred cases reported each year in the United States.  While all of the mechanics of communication are not well understood, infection generally requires significant exposure (most new cases live for years near others who are infected) and genetic predisposition.

Leprosy commonly affects the nerves, skin, and mucous membranes.  It may also affect the eyes, muscles, and other areas of the body.  It begins with light-colored lesions on the skin, where the bacteria tend to reside.  If left untreated, it spreads throughout the body, eventually causing permanent nerve damage, stiff joints, blindness, and loss or dissolution of fingers, toes, facial features and limbs.  While because of nerve damage the leprosy-affected may not feel the physical pain of all of these effects, the emotional and mental anguish can be just as damaging.  Many leprous are rejected both by society and by their families.  They are left abandoned to beg on the streets or live with others “of their kind” on colonies.  They face a tremendous negative social stigma that marginalizes them from the neighborhoods, social circles, and markets in which they used to function normally.  In essence, they relive the ancient curse, metaphorically walking through their former lives shouting the Biblical refrain: “Unclean.”

Today, leprosy is both detectable and curable thanks to a multi-antibiotic treatment provided free of charge by the WHO.  Once incurred, however, the effects of the disease are irreversible, even after the leprosy-causing bacteria are eradicated.  Leprosy is generally not fatal – in fact, in some ways it is the slow, living death that has made so many horror films.  In the end, its victims fall to other infections, including some that begin as sores and lesions in limbs they no longer feel.   These slowly develop into bone-deep wounds, opening the biological conduit for other harmful bacteria.

That being said, there is hope in this otherwise gloomy scene.  Through them I, as so many others before me, am a personal witness to the resiliency and power of the human spirit despite incredible adversity.  They continually move onward and look upward, showing true courage and humility.  Like all of us, those affected by leprosy are real people with real thoughts, hopes, dreams, and dilemmas.  They are not their bodies.  And they prove that to me daily.  Like my nearly-blind, nearly-deaf friend at Bethel Nagar.  I do not know his name.  Every time I ask, a new one is given by those around him.  But he loves to dance and joke, sings “Hallelujah” nearly continuously and has about the funniest laugh I have ever heard.  Or Dorei Raj, my lovely tailor friend, who beams each time we arrive and whose equally-lovely wife, also a victim of leprosy, pulls up their only two stools so we can sit while she graces the nearby stoop.  She is beautiful.  Or the dozens of patients who press what remains of their hands together in front of their chests to welcome us, often with a toothless grin.  “Vanakkam.”   Welcome.  Or the scores of their children, who despite living under the same social stigma are still just kids and love to play with anyone and anything.  They are all wonderful.

In Biblical times, the leprous were sent “outside the camp,” banished for their malady from the rest of the presumably “clean” society.  How lucky I am to live among them today.  To me and so many others, they are anything but unclean.

Leave a comment

Filed under Uncategorized

An Update to the Update (a.k.a. Donation Instructions)

Thanks to all of those who have expressed an interest in donating so far!  For any others who are interested, updated donation instructions are below.  In addition, if you could send me an email letting me know you’ve donated, I’ll be able to personally follow up with our results.  Thanks again, and happy holidays!

Donation Instructions:

  1. Go to the RSO Online Gift form at https://interland3.donorperfect.net/weblink/weblink.aspx?name=risingstar&id=2
  2. If you would like to support my work here in India, fill out the top box with my name (Rebekah Ellsworth).
  3. If you would like to donate toward clothes and gifts for the children, fill out the bottom box with “General Fund” as the Gift Designation.  Please specify in the comment box that this is for “Holiday Giving.” 
  4. If you are interested in a print from Leo (Option #2 from the previous post), send me your mailing address at chilebek@gmail.com and I will get it to you.  If you’d like to include the amount of your donation, that would be great.  I’d like to tell Leo the amount of good he was able to do.
  5. Go to the kitchen and eat the ice cream out of the carton with a spoon.  Then turn on Elf and relax.  You deserve it.  Good for you.  🙂 

1 Comment

Filed under Uncategorized

An Open Email (a.k.a. Update from India)

If I know and like you, you should have just received this.  If not, I don’t have your email address.  Or I just plain don’t like you.  Likely the former.  🙂  

Hello!  Happy holidays!  I hope you are enjoying them!  
 
Apologies in advance for the form email.  Some of you I unfortunately haven’t seen in ages; others of you, gratefully, I have. 
 
As some of you (especially those on Facebook) may know, I have been out of the country for the past 3 months volunteering among the leprosy-affected people of India.  Most of my work has been through an organization called Rising Star Outreach, which provides medical care, financial services (in the form of micro-credit loans), and education to leprosy patients and their children.  I have been fortunate enough to work in all of these areas in one way or another and am witness to both the great need of the people we visit and the great service provided by Rising Star to them.  Take, for example, the man that I met just a few days ago, who ate lunch out of a bucket with his fingerless hands as he loudly sang “Hallelujah” to anyone who would listen.  Or Vicky, the second grade boy with whom I read daily and who just yesterday blazed through four books with barely a pause; a month ago he could hardly read one!  Or Dorai Raj, a local leprosy-affected tailor whose leaky roof has forced him to move his sewing maching into the corner, but who still smiles radiantly whenever we drive up.  I love that smile and that man. 


 
All in all it’s a pretty awesome organization with some pretty awesome objectives.  And I’d like to invite you to help us acheive them!
 
There are at least three ways that you can help from home — and lots more than that if you want to come to India!  Each of the three is listed below.  Feel free to participate in any or all of them.  Any contribution helps — including just passing this email along to family and friends.
 
Thanks in advance for your time, support, and consideration.  I truly do appreciate it.  It’s funny: I’ve heard that “I complained because I had no shoes until I met the man that has no feet” quote all my life but I’ve never quite felt like I now do.  Today, on Thanksgiving, I am grateful for my hands – because I now know so many people without them.  I hope you have an awesome Thanksgiving and a memorable holiday season!  Please keep in touch.  I would love to hear from you!
 
All the best,
Rebekah
 
Option 1: Holiday gifts.  Most of our children have only a few sets of clothes and one pair of shoes, all of which of course have holes in them.  I am currently working on procuring holiday gifts all of our 180 children while simultaneously patronizing some of our leprosy patients’ micro-businesses.  For $10 we can buy pants, shoes, or a dress for one child.  For $5 we can buy a shirt or other small gifts (toys, dolls, etc).  If you are interested in helping buy gifts for the children, email me at chilebek@gmail.com with the amount you would like to donate (multiples of $10).  You can pay online at the RSO website by using these instructions.* 

 


Option 2: Project expenses.  While in Italy I met local artist named Leo Kennedy.  As we talked, Leo learned of my plans to come to India and, wanting to help, generously donated an entire stack of prints with the instruction to sell them and use the money for my work in India.  The print (below) is of the Amalfi Coast.  The price is up to you; Leo suggested a $20 donation.  Proceeds will go toward my work at RSO (e.g. project costs, living costs, etc) and I will be happy to either deliver it (DC area) or have it shipped.  And I will, of course, let Leo know the results of his generosity.  If you are interested, please email me at chilebek@gmail.com with your donation amount and mailing address.  Payments can be made online using these instructions.* 


Option 3: RSO wishlist.  Rising Star has a number of donation options, including its annual wish list.  If you’re interested in contributing to any of these items, please vist our website at: http://risingstaroutreach.org/goodtogive or join our mailing list at: http://risingstaroutreach.org/newslettersu.


_____________________
* If you prefer to pay by check, just let me know and I’ll work it out with you.
If you are interested in learning more about Rising Star, please visit our website at www.risingstaroutreach.org

Leave a comment

Filed under Uncategorized

Agra & Delhi (a.k.a. Indian Hyperbole)

My adventures in India began with a 4-day trip to Delhi and Agra with two friends – one old (Jamie, 10 years and counting), one new (Celina, we basically met at the airport).  As those who have been here already know, India is all about “-est” — as in loudest, spicy-est, craziest, colorful-est, busiest, smelliest, etc.  One friend put it well when she noted that India is a sensory overload in every way – sight, sound, smell, taste – and that after a few minutes, hours, or days of shock, your body finally gets numb to it all and it begins to wash over you and blend.  Until it becomes normal.  Having been lucky enough to travel to a few other extreme/”-est” destinations I don’t think I was thrown for quite as much of a loop as I could have been, but I still have to give India props.  It’s pretty intense, in its own pass-the-curry-mammoth-insect-why-is-everyone-yelling-is-there-a-right-of-way? kind of way.  Given that my Delhi/Agra experience was my first taste of India’s cultural kick,  I thought it only appropriate to present it in all its hyperbolic glory – from biggest, to tallest, to funniest, to mostest, to bestest, etc-est.

Best site: The Taj Mahal.  How could it not be?  One of the seven wonders of the world and perhaps the world’s best monument to love.  It truly is just breathtaking (and purse-taking, if you don’t watch your pockets).  Close second, however, was Akshardam.  A religious site built within the last decade, it totally stunned me and blew any expectations I had (which were minimal, considering I’d just heard about it for the first time that day) completely out of the water.  On a related note…

Best sightseeing moment:  Sunrise at the Taj and walking into Akshardam.  Surprisingly, the second may have been even better.  That well may be because I expected the Taj to be beautiful and impressive.  I was not, however, expecting Akshardham to be Indiana Jones meets Temple Square meets Milan Duomo meets the Bellagio.  Which it was.  It was like I was in a movie.  Completely stunned.  Which is also why I’m both bitter against and grateful to the Indian government for refusing to let me bring my camera in.  While I desperately wanted to take pictures of the complex, not having the distraction was actually refreshing.  Here is the one picture I did get from the outside.  Try to ignore the trailer park directly in front of it.

Funniest sign: The list of prohibited items outside the security checkpoint at Akshardham.  Not only does it list all of the normal things you would think might be considered prohibited (no guns, no firecrackers, no knives, etc) but it also includes a number of things that seem just a little over-the-top-specific.  Like “no calculators, no pencils, no erasers, no notebooks” (is there a math test inside I should know about?) or “no betel nuts” (can I bring other nuts?), etc.   The sign alone is worth a visit.

Funniest moment:  Five minutes after passing the above-mentioned beauty of a sign, when Celina put her hand to her pants pocket and yelled out “Oh no!  I brought my calculator!”  She, of course, was joking.  Jamie and I thought it was hilarious.

Best performance: The fountain and lights show at Akshardham.  It’s like the Bellagio fountain with Indian music and colored lights.  And the best part is the huge crowd of Indian people sitting around it eating popcorn as if it were the movies.  Awesome. 

Biggest statue:  This huge orange monkey right outside our hotel.  It’s one of the Hindu gods (Hanuman?).  The most amazing thing is that when we would tell our rickshaw drivers we were right by the “huge orange monkey Hanuman statue,” they didn’t know what it was.  How do you miss this??  It’s 20 meters high!

Best chocolate:  The surprisingly modern chocolatier in the Chennai airport.  How in the world am I eating pineapple goulash in India?  Definitely not expected.  Definitely not complaining.

Best restaurant service:  This fine gentleman in the Chennai airport.  “Don’t mind me.  You’re just going to eat off of this…”

Best church meeting: Okay, I don’t actually know the answer to this one, but it’s a relevant question since we ended up going to three that Sunday.  The first one we were not only late to (because our driver decided to instead take us to his friend’s bazaar) but it was also the wrong one (i.e., not the one where our friends were), the second was the right one but we arrived an hour late because of having accidentally gone to the first place, and the third one was to make up for missing the first part of both of the first two.  So if anyone needs an opinion on Mormon congregations in Delhi, let me know.  I’ve got three. 

Best food: Fajitas and brownies at the Ranck’s house, followed by Pizza Hut with friends Ben and Mary.  You may have noticed that both of these are not Indian.  That would be because I actually don’t like Indian food.  I didn’t even before I moved to India.  I also don’t like Pakistani, Afghani, or any similar type of food (yes, that’s right DC-ites: I hate the Kabob Palace, it’s true).  So it’s somewhat ironic I moved to India and somewhat wonderful that Pizza Hut, Baskin Robbins, McDonalds and their compatriots have done their best to muscle their way into India so that I can eat “normal” food.  Go Western culinary domination!

Biggest flower:  The Bahai Lotus Flower Temple.  Sigh.  So beautiful.

Biggest surprise: Running into Sergio Lewis, hands down.  We’re in the middle of Delhi (actually, at the American embassy) waiting to be picked up to go to the train station to buy tickets.  As our ride pulls up, we jump inside and a short, brown man in the front turns around and says “Jamie Kalama and Rebekah Ellsworth.” I about died.  How in the world do you go to a country of 1.6 billion people, halfway around the world, and run into someone you know?  I have no idea, actually, but somehow we did it.  And we were super glad we did.  Sergio joined us for part of that day and for our 24-hour trip down to Agra.  We left him the following day when we flew back to Chennai.  From what I heard later from Sergio, he was really sick to see us go.   Or he could have just eaten bad food on the train out of Delhi.  But I’m pretty sure it was our absence.  Right, Serg? 😉

Tallest site:  Qutab Minar, which boasts the world’s tallest brick minaret, at 72 meters.  It was really beautiful and also home to some really cool green parrots:

Best sightseeing outfit:  Definitely this man.  I love him so much it’s ridiculous.  If you’ve got it, flaunt it.  And he has most definitely got it.

 

Best guide: Saleem in Old Delhi.  Not only did he and his friend pedal us through the tiny, crowded streets (with everyone staring at us as we passed above them on our rickshaws – which made us feel, somewhat uncomfortably, like Indian royalty) and show us all the sites (India’s largest mosque, the spice market, etc) but also showed us a rooftop view of the whole area and introduced us to a supposed member of Parliament.

Craziest streets:  Definitely Old Delhi.  I’ve never been on anything that crowded in my life.  Except maybe the Schmobama’s inauguration in DC.  Or free ice cream day at Ben & Jerry’s…

Fullest vehicle:  If we’re judging based on number of bodies per square centimeter of cargo space, I’m not sure which of the many we passed on our 4.5 hour drive to Agra was actually the fullest, but this would at least be a strong contender.  I only got the back of it in the picture, so we’re missing about a dozen more people.  Extra points for the roof surfing.  Please note they seem completely unconcerned by the fact they’re up there while cruising at 30 mph. 

Best driver: This one would have to go to Brij, our fantastic Agra driver.  Not only did he take us from Delhi to Agra and back, but he also drove us all around Delhi afterwards.  If anyone’s headed to Delhi soon, let me know and I’ll pass his information along.  I might have given this prize to the auto rickshaw driver who insisted that his meter was broken (so he could charge us extra), only to have it miraculously fix itself the moment we started to walk away, but this would describe roughly half of the drivers in Delhi – and that’s being generous.  As my friend Ben aptly noted, the morals of the Indian people are admirable – except if they happen to drive a rickshaw. 

Largest sundial/Most confusing site/Best name: Jantar Mantar, a.k.a. Yantra Mantra.  Jamie, Sergio and I spent at least an hour climbing all over this site – and even with the benefit of four cumulative college degrees and half a dozen posted English signs, none of us managed to tell the time of day nor the height of any celestial objects.  We did, however, manage to take some fun photos.  So not a complete waste of time after all (what time was it, again?).

Worst moment: Let’s just say that this one started with an Indian public restroom and ended with me bathing my passport, cash, and credit cards in Purell out on the grass (see pic).  Enough said. 

All in all a fantastic trip – the best-est.  There’s tons more to tell but so little time to do it!  For more information, see Jamie’s awesome post.  As she notes, we were definitely blessed.  (Bless-est?  Blest?)

*More photos on FB if interested.

Leave a comment

Filed under Uncategorized

Dubai Top Ten (a.k.a. Addendum)

Because you can never get too much Curtis Cannon, here are my Dubai top ten:

10.  Ordering drinks at Eat and Drink.  The drink menu consists of just a list of names (and a few pictures) with names like Galaxy, Internet, etc.  There are no descriptions.  Just pick and name and see what you get.  I can’t even remember the name of what I got, but it was humongous and awesome!  Here’s a picture with my camera lens bag as a reference:

9.  Dubai’s imaginary maps.  While we were planning the day’s events, Curtis showed me a local map that included several islands that don’t even exist yet. Dubai changes so fast that they print maps of what it’s going to look like (or better said, what they hope it will look like, since several of the islands have been back-burnered because of the financial crisis) rather than what it looks like now.  It totally made me laugh.  Imagine that elsewhere.  No, no.  Don’t turn left.  There’s nothing there.  That’s where the street is going to be next year.

8. Going from 100 degrees and white sands at 10:00 a.m. to 30 degrees and white slopes by 2:00 p.m.  Where else can you defrost your hands, numb from skiing, by simply walking outside?  This really shouldn’t be possible.  In Dubai it is.

7.  Shopping with Curtis and Tim.   As you can see, Curtis and Tim were awesome shopping buddies:

As were these sweet bobble-head Emirates.

6.  The male to female ratio.  Within 20 minutes of picking me up, Curtis was telling me about the male to female ratio in UAE.  He claimed that it was more than 8 to 1 and that thus “It’s impossible to meet women.”  We tested his theory later that night in Old Dubai: of 100 people we passed on the street, only 8 of them were women.  Finally!  After 3 years of the 1 to 3 ratio of the Colonial 1st ward, the tables had turned, and dramatically.  It was almost enough to convince me to take up permanent residence.  If only I wanted to marry a Pakistani…

5.  Curtis’s epic fail.  There were two types of lifts at Ski Dubai.  One was the normal chair style, where you line up side by side and sit down on a big bench as it swings up behind you.  The other was a little more old school.  It consisted of individual ropes that were attached to a rotating overhead cable.  On the free end of each rope was a small circular seat.  The idea is that the skier grabs the rope at the base, sits on the seat, and then pulls the rope onto the rotating cable.  The cable then pulls the rope and skier up the hill.  Curtis, Rob and I used the first ski lift almost the entire time we were there.  Just before we finished for the day, however, we decided to try the second lift.  At the entrance to the lift there was a sign warning that the lift was for experts only.  We of course decided this meant us (never mind the fact that by this point none of us had successfully made it down Ski Dubai’s tiny hill without falling down at least one time) and got in line.  I was first, and after a little confusion about how to hook the rope to the cable, I managed to get on the seat and my board underneath me and began to steer my board up the hill (which was more difficult than it had looked).   Rob was next and did the same.  Then came Curtis.  Or at least he should have.  I missed the full performance from where I was, but from what I saw, the first rope got away from him in about 10 seconds, leaving Curtis in a heap in the lift’s path.  Not one to be easily dissuaded or outdone, Curtis made his way back to the starting point and, in front of the line of waiting “expert” skiers, got another rope.  This one lasted him even less time.  By the time the third rope left Curtis empty-handed, the line behind him had grown from 5 to 25 people and Curtis acquiesced.  It was pretty funny, even to Curtis.  Chair lift: 3, Curtis: zip.

4.  This:

Enough said.

3.  Curtis yelling out “Ladies and gentlemen, Miss Rebekah Ellsworth” and applauding from the Ski Dubai chair lift – which, because of Curtis’s amazing persona, got everyone else applauding as well.  Feeling a little embarrassed at all the attention (he seriously had almost the entire top half of the ski resort applauding and yelling), I finished strapping in, kicked off down the hill … and then managed to promptly fall flat on my fanny again.  Not exactly my best performance.  Good thing I got all the applause in advance.  🙂

2.  These.  Very possibly the highlight of the whole trip, particularly because of how amazing this is.  They’re surprisingly comfortable, too, which detail Curtis neglected.  Tim helped me model them in the store and was also the one who convinced me to make the plunge and buy them.  I would have gotten the awesome purple belt too, but it was just a little (i.e., 6 inches) too big.  I wore the pants the rest of the night to Curtis’s surprise and the strange looks of several strangers.

We topped it all off with a late-night fashion shoot.  Curtis even lent me his aviators.  Design and photography were by Tim.

1.  My gracious hosts, Curtis and Tim.  Not only did they show me around all day, but they let me sleep in their bed (that’s right – their bed.  Don’t worry – they take turns using it) and eat their Trix.  That’s love.  Thanks so much, guys!  I loved it!

Leave a comment

Filed under Uncategorized

Hello, Dubai (a.k.a. the Tale of Two Cities)

 

 It was the best of times, it was … Actually, that’s about it. There was no worst about it. My one-day stopover in Dubai was just plain good times, thanks especially to my two amazing tour guides, Tim and Curtis. The following are the highlights:

City 1: Modern Dubai –the Vegas of the East. After a lazy morning in Curtis and Tim’s bed (yes, their bed. As in both of them. Don’t worry; they weren’t in it. Though you probably should worry it belongs to both of them…), I arose and got my first real view of Dubai out their apartment window: sand and skyscrapers. That’s about it. It’s kind of a strange combination, actually. I understand the need skyscrapers in Manhattan or Tokyo, where for some reason a billion people have all decided to live on a piece of land the size of a postage stamp, but Dubai? Land is cheap; spread out, not up. Or maybe there’s something symbolic in reaching for the sky despite living in a wasteland. Or in growing more like a redwood than a squash plant.

Dubai, like Vegas, is a city of fantasies in the midst of a desert driven by tourism and architects’ imaginations. We started our morning by picking up a friend, Rob, and driving over to Burj al-Arab, the world’s only 7-star hotel. The hotel boasts a rooftop helicopter landing pad and tennis court, the world’s tallest atrium, a fleet of Rolls-Royces, and a staff to guest ratio of like twelve to one. Even just to go inside and look around in expensive and has to be booked in advance. Needless to stay, we just took pictures from the beach. The beach was uncomfortably hot, even at 10 am (and that was the season’s first “nice” day, per Curtis and Tim). The water was bath-water warm. I just can’t imagine what it would be like in July or swimming in head-to-toe clothing like these folks: 

No wonder the Emirates love their air-conditioned malls!

Breakfast. We walked around the shops at a nearby outdoor/indoor mall (Mall #1) and then had breakfast at one of the restaurants. I ordered “cheese French toast,” which resulted in this:

I guess that’s what I asked for. Tim refused to eat the butter with his meal because it came from New Zealand. Silly Aussie.  🙂 

After breakfast, we drove the Palm Islands, which are a huge man-made archipelago in the shape of a palm tree and which contain three of the world’s largest man-made islands. The main trunk of the tree is like a mile long, and along each frond there are hotels, mosques, and tons of condominiums. At the far end of the trunk there’s a tunnel that goes under the ocean and comes out on the outermost island, which is also one of the two locations for the world-famous Hotel Atlantis. It was so crazy to drive so far and see so much on land that once was ocean. It’s amazing what people dream up.

Mall of the Emirates (Mall #2) was next. While the mall is big in its own right (it was the second largest in the Middle East when it opened in 2005), its biggest claim to fame is Ski Dubai, the Middle East’s, and my, first indoor ski slope. Yes, that’s right. Indoor ski slope. And it’s amazing. You walk into the mall, turn the corner, and there before your eyes, through the glass windows and surrounded by tacky mall tables and chairs, is a winter wonderland, complete with ski lifts, bobsledding, and snowball fights.

Of course we went.  Well. except Tim.  I think Tim went to a chick flick instead (did someone say Twilight?).  😉

Since everyone in Dubai is obviously dressed for the 100 degree weather outside, Ski Dubai includes snow pants, socks and a winter coat in the cost of the ski pass. But for some reason they don’t include gloves, forcing us to buy these beauties from the store next door:

The skiing in Ski Dubai was surprisingly good, considering that the entire mountain and all the snow is completely fake, and my snow-boarding was unsurprisingly bad, considering my once-every-three-years history. But it was really fun. I ran up afterwards to grab this photo:

I got some stares and comments from the other folks as I was standing there, which was understandable since I was once again in my flip flops and shorts. It was so crazy to think that just 4 hours before, in the same flip flops and shorts, I was standing on burning white sands instead of freezing white snow! After skiing we were all starving again, so Curtis and Tim took us to a favorite locals restaurant called Eat & Drink. We let C&T do the ordering, which resulted in so much food that even three starving boys had to wave their white flags (okay, napkins) in surrender.

City 2: Old Dubai

Old Dubai couldn’t be any further from modern Dubai in every way except geographically. It’s populated not by Emirates but by imported Philippinos and Pakistanis who work low-level jobs (think “sanitation engineer”) and live 20 to a room in order to send money back to their distant families. Kind of like the United States and Latin Americans…though I believe the Pakistanis are actually legal here. The streets are lined with typical third-world type shops with cluttered, colorful storefronts and metal, pull-down doors (and a bjillion men … more of that later, I hope). We started our visit walking through town to a river front, where we boarded a flat boat (no safety rails needed, thanks) and paid the guy manning the small ski-boat type engine 25 cents to take us up and across the river. On the other side was the Dubai spice market and gold souk. The gold souk is estimated to contain about 10 tons of gold at any one time, not to mention other precious metals and jewels of all kinds. Curtis flirted with a gold bangle that turned out to cost $2000 and Tim offered get me this ring if we got married:

I should have held out for this one: 🙂

As cool as the gold was, my favorite part of Old Delhi was finally seeing the place I had heard and dreamed about for so long: Curtis’s yellow pants shop. Ever since I read (and reread, and reread) Curtis’s infamous blog post, I had wanted to see the actual spot. And this is it.

Las Vegas, here we come! It was all he described and more; totally worth the hour we spent in traffic asking directions from confused Emirates who had no idea what we were talking about. Tim and Curtis were awesome shopping buddies, as you can tell. Here’s Curtis trying on some new looks…

 

and Tim advising me on Dubai shoe styles:

 

In the end I didn’t get the shoes, but I did get…

 

Yes!  My very own yellow pants. I’m so happy.  I even wore them home. 🙂

We finished the day back in Modern Dubai at the Dubai Mall (Mall #3), the world’s largest shopping mall, which houses an indoor ice-skating rink, a massive indoor fountain, and Dubai Aquarium, the world’s largest suspended aquarium, with over 33,000 marine animals inside. Outside the mall is the Dubai Fountain, the world’s largest dancing fountain (think the Bellagio fountain x 5). It was so beautiful, and I loved that it was set to Eastern/Arabic music. And that it was right next to this:

 

The Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building by a long shot. It looked to me like something out of the Lord of the Rings or like the White Witch’s palace from The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe. We liked the fountain so much we watched it three times.  🙂

We ended the night back at Tim and Curtis’s house and then to the airport for my 2 a.m. flight. Overall an awesome adventure! Thanks, C&T. It truly was the best of times!

*More pics on FB if interested.

Leave a comment

Filed under Uncategorized

Last Day in Rome (a.k.a. Characteristic Chaos)

Author’s note: I figured, in the wisdom of Julie Andrews, that the beginning was the very best place to start.  And, since going back to the very beginning would require not seeing the sun for at least several days (see previous post), I figured that the beginning of the India portion of my trip was the next best thing, which unfortunately yet inevitably began with my departure from Rome.  Though I’m still sad not to be in the Eternal City (why wasn’t I born Italian?), I suppose it’s true that, in the immortal words of Semisonic, “Every new beginning comes from some other beginning’s end.”  And India is fantastic.  I can handle that.  🙂

My last day in Rome was spent in characteristic Rebekah fashion.  I wish I could claim this meant that I got up early to watch the sun rise over some idyllic Roman setting, spent a leisurely morning soaking in the sights and sounds of the city I continue to love, despite it’s now-known defects, visited a final site and a final friend, and then rode away, calm and reflective, on a southbound train to my new destination.  I wish I could say I spent it that way.  I sure didn’t. 

I did get up early, but it was to continue packing rather than to sight-see or reflect.  I had been up late the night before (classic Rebekah) trying to finish up but fell asleep sometime in the middle of the night exhausted.  I blame it all on DFM.  He’s the one that talked me into gelato the night before across Rome at 11 p.m.  But, I have to admit, it was worth it.  Old Bridge Gelateria, outside the Vatican.  Quite possibly Rome’s best gelateria.  Why I found it my last night rather than my first only the gelato gods can say, but I’m glad I did.  It’s like the couple that, having spent their lives apart or with other people, finally meet in their old age and find everything they never knew could exist (I’m telling you, CCJ…it’s him) or that old lady in the Church movie who vainly checks her mailbox everyday and finally gets a letter the same day she passes away (if you haven’t seen it, don’t; it’s sad). 

I culminated my sight-seeing siesta with a visit to my favorite building in Rome: Vittorio Emmanuele.  It is a monument to the unification of Italy and a breathtakingly beautiful, massive white building.  I’d walked or driven past it maybe a hundred times but never gone in.  My friend had tipped me off that there was an elevator to the very top with a panoramic, birds-eye view of Rome.  He was right.  It was fantastic (thanks, RAS), even if the teenage Italian elevator employee did shamelessly make passes as we went up (do I really look that young?).  It was the perfect final destination — all my favorite places in every direction: Piazza del Popolo, Trastevere, the Vatican and Castel Sant’Angelo, Via del Corso and the church where I attended evening mass, the Colosseum and Roman Forum, the Spanish Steps, Villa Borghese.  Between them were the unseen sights: the Pantheon with it’s amazing street performers, the Trevi Fountain and my horrible luck with men, my first home in Piramide, Palazzo de Freddo, Dilit, etc.  And, of course, Vittorio Emmanuele.  It was a wonderful last visit; one to never forget. 

 

And then back to the madness.  Leaving Vittorio Emmanuele, I jumped in a taxi and made a mad dash to Piazza Navona to buy a painting I’d loved (only to find out it had been sold – so sad!) and then bused back to San Giovanni to buy a final gift (which sadly wasn’t there: sorry, REM, it was perfect!), ship a box and grab my bags.  I’d thought that sending a box home would be far better than carrying a bunch of superfluous stuff on my back for the next several months, but when I got done at the Poste Italiane I was less convinced.  Holy cow, that’s expensive!  It took my first-born son (sorry, husband) and almost every Euro I had to send it. I even had to borrow two Euro from my roommate afterwards just to buy my train ticket (thanks, TH!).  Note to future Italy travelers: very much not recommended.  🙂 

I made the trip to Termini in record time and actually had minutes to spare before my train left (highly uncharacteristic :)).  I sat in my chair, eating my favorite Italian lunch (bread and brie … I know, I know – French, not Italian) and tried to unwind from the chaos of the day.  It was over.  So sad.  More dramatic and soul-stretching than I had ever dreamed.  But in the end successful.  I now speak (some) Italian.

The rest of the trip was rather uneventful (unless you count the run around at the airline check in — try that when all your accounts are locked and they want you to pay a fee; thank heavens for American Express) or when they almost didn’t let me through Dubai customs (How am I supposed to know his address?  He was coming to get me…  His neighborhood?  I don’t even know what country Dubai is in…  Yes, I’m sure he has a cell phone, but I don’t know the number.  I don’t have a phone to call him if I did…  Email address?  Not a chance…  Well, then let me use your computer to look it up…  I don’t know if he’s outside; do you want to come with?…  Do you have a manager?…  Well, I don’t have any other ideas either……..  *stare at each other silently for a while*  Okay, thanks.  Cheese.  Click….) 

I did, however, have a great view out the window.  God is an amazing artist; He makes beauty out of chaos.

Leave a comment

Filed under Uncategorized

Chapter 1 (a.k.a. Cyber Bankruptcy)

I once read an email or blog post about a woman that had declared email bankruptcy.*  She had gotten so far behind on her emails that she gave up all hope of actually responding to them and instead decided to just answer none of them.  She sent an email out to everyone in her contact list stating her intentions (or lack thereof) and told them that if they still needed a response, they should email her again.  That’s a little how I feel about this blog.  I intended to start it right when I left on my trip back in August, but when faced with the option of going outside and enjoying Rome’s autumnal splendors or sitting inside on a computer, I caved to temptation and, like the irresponsible grasshopper, went bounding outside (usually in search of gelato), promising myself I’d do it later.  And then again.  And again.  And now my ant side has finally kicked in.  That is, now it’s later.  But now I’m also woefully behind.  Add to that the fact that my computer, with the little that I had started, was stolen (that’s a blog post for another day).  As a result, I’ve decided that instead of starting at the beginning and catching up, I’m just going to declare bankruptcy and start from where I am, in India, and add in random Italian vignettes as I see fit.  Hopefully I’ll get the full Italian story done someday.  Maybe sometime around Chapter 11.

*It is now so popular it has not only been coined as a common term, but it has it’s own seven-step program.  My current inbox?  1327 non-spam, non-list-serv emails.  Someone pass the pen…

Leave a comment

Filed under Uncategorized

Introduction (a.k.a. Disclaimer)

Welcome to my blog.  I hope you like it.   

This blog is really the result of one guilty conscience and one worried heart.  The guilty conscience is, of course, my own.  I have never been a blogger.  I have only consistently read one blog in my life (the Apron Stage, which I read religiously on break at work for two years and which recently ended…forcing me to quit my job) and have never written anything resembling a blog post, much less kept a blog of my own.  That’s in part because 1. I am a horrible journal-keeper (Seriously – if journal-keeping is on the entrance exam for heaven, I may as well start living licentiously, because I am just not going to make it) and 2. I can’t sit down long enough to actually write a post.  (If you had the option of writing a blog or seeing one more Roman museum or exploring one more Indian temple, what would you choose?  I thought so.  Me too.)  Add to that my lack of writing experience and my general distaste for editing/rewriting/etc (Seriously.  I didn’t even proofread my application essays to Harvard Business School (=bad idea).  The blog doesn’t stand a chance.) and what do you have?  A recipe for some serious procrastination.  Followed by guilt for my lazy lifestyle and my selfish disregard.  And then my mother’s constant questions:  “Are you alive?”  (Seriously.  She asks that.)  “Where are you?”  “What’s going on?”  Bless her worried heart.  Without it, I might have died young.

So, although I am starting late, I hope to somehow be able to make it up.  And maybe someday I’ll actually learn to keep a journal, though that would take a serious miracle.  Something along the lines of a King Benjamin-ish change of heart.  I can say, however, that already I have learned a ton from my brief foray into the blogging world.  For example:

  1. Real, consistent bloggers are a model of dedication and self-discipline, more of which I am apparently in need.
  2. It is possible to use more parenthetical than actual statements in a blog post.  I even have parenthesis within parenthesis.  It’s like middle-school algebra gone wrong.
  3. I use the word “seriously” far too much.
  4. Indian keyboards are not like American keyboards.  For example, if I push this: ‘ followed by this: e I get this: é, not this: ‘e.  Or there’s this: ö.  Or this: ñ.  I recognize these letters, having a sister that speaks German and a family that hablars español, but I’m really confused as to why they’re the default on my keyboard.  In India.  Second most common national language: English. 

As you can see, blogging has already benefitted me immensely.  🙂

Seriously, I suppose the real lesson is that regardless of our current circumstances, there are always more blessings in life than there is time to write them.  And yet we owe God and others the gratitude of at least attempting it.  As I continue to live my Italian and Indian super-adventure, through museums and metros and temples and elephant blessings, among the relics of the ancient rich and reality of the today’s poor, and with some of the most generous and able people that I know, I feel that this is particularly true for me.  I guess that means it’s time to start writing.

Seriously.

Leave a comment

Filed under Uncategorized